The decision to replace tyres can come on in the blink of an eye. A puncture, a roadworthiness check that shows up worn-out tread, or some observant mechanic during a routine service notices something’s amiss; before you know it you’re under a bit of pressure to make a quick call. The conversation that follows, deciding which tyre is actually the right one, is often cut short when it shouldn’t be. It’s worth asking a few hard questions: what tyre is being fitted, does it really meet the manufacturer’s original spec, and is the fitter doing the job properly? The answers to these questions have a big impact on how the vehicle handles, how safe it is and for how long those new tyres will last. Coming into the process with even a basic understanding of what to look out for makes a huge difference to how well the whole thing goes.
The Sort of Selection Conversation You Really Should Have First
Every tyre has its load index and speed rating marked on the sidewall, but don’t assume those figures just magically match up with what the manufacturer says you need. Tyre fitting Chirnside Park professionals will tell you that fitting a tyre with a lower load rating than what’s specified is a no-go in Victoria; it’s not just about how the car handles, it’s a compliance issue. Mixing different brands or types on the same axle can wreak havoc on how the car handles, especially when it’s wet and you really need the stability. Before you agree to do anything, you should be asking yourself and the fitter two pretty simple questions: does this tyre meet or beat the load index the manufacturer recommends, and is the speed rating any good for how you actually drive the thing?
Reading the Numbers Already on Your Tyres
A sidewall code on a tyre has more information than is normally used by drivers. Information in a sidewall code such as 225/50R17 94V shows the section width in millimetres, the aspect ratio as a percentage of the section width, the diameter of the rim in inches, the load index and the speed rating of the tyre in order. Checking that the fitment specification is clear and whether a replacement tyre is compatible takes less than a minute.
What the Fitting Process Actually Involves?
Proper tyre fitting starts before a tyre is mounted on the tyre-changing machine. A thorough inspection of the rim includes checking that there is no corrosion of the bead seat, cracks in the rim edge and damage to the valve seat. Even if the tyre is completely in perfect condition, a tyre fitted onto a corroded bead seat creates an unreliable seal. During the mounting process the tyre changer seats the beads of the tyre using a proper amount of air pressure. The dynamic balancing of the wheel and tyre assembly is done by spinning the assembly and identifying necessary places of weight correction.
Why Wheel Alignment Follows a New Fit?
Putting on new tyres does not solve the issue with wheel alignment, but new tyres take up the issue through wearing out in an uneven wear. A vehicle with the incorrect toe angle would be able to wear out the inner or outer part of brand-new tyres faster than the central part of the tyre, thus shortening its life from the first kilometre of driving. According to the National Road Safety Strategy published by the Australian Government, tyre condition and maintenance are among the most critical vehicle factors in road safety outcomes. If a car’s steering wheel is not in the centre when it stops, or pulls to one side when driving on highways, then a wheel alignment is needed together with the fit.
4WD Fitting Requires a Specific Approach
4WD tyres are all-terrain and mud-terrain tyres; thus they have reinforced sidewalls and require special care during the mounting process. The torque value of wheel nuts on a 4WD vehicle is higher than that of normal passenger cars and is checked with a torque wrench after the fitment. Under-torqued wheel nuts loosen up gradually under loading conditions, usually at high speed, not in the car park.
